Saturday, February 14, 2015

Astral Tailor

            The audience attending the debut of Astrid Andersen’s Bespoke Collection may have been dressed in more fur than the models in Andersen’s new luxury-fur heavy collection.  Unveiled last night  in the appropriately luxurious yet hip Standard hotel overlooking New York City’s Hudson River as apart of the A/W 2015 New York fashion week.

The designer has been a leader in progressive men’s wear with her genre bending Avant-Garde street wear inspired collections that present fresh forms of masculinity.  The show was sound tracked by thumping hip hop, a constant source of inspiration for Andersen, and presented a kind of cross-gendered “big pimping.”
Imbuing hyper masculine garments with feminine colors like coral and almost couture level craft. Astrid Andersen Bespoke , a capsule collection predominantly of outwear, marks the designers first foray into true luxury.

Although she has  often used fur in the past here Andersen partnered with Kopenhagen Fur “the world’s largest mink auction house.”Offering a new direction in fur design ; Andersen  rewrote  the standard and usually conservative use of the material.  I came patterned and in bright shades as coats and festooning baseball caps in long dark red strands. Used as ‘sweat shirts’ fur was emblazoned with Andersen’s signature use of bold branding and her  ubiquitous  hip hop-samari- NASAian logo.

Far from a “fur collection,” the material appeared along side equally progressive ready to wear style garments, like jogging pants and sweaters, in nylon and wool. These fabrics came in similar patterns and colors, as well as being coated, treated and a particularly interesting kind of silver.

Bringing the street to luxury and luxury to the street. Astrid Andersen Bespoke traverses styles and what is expected of the designer and the genres.

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